Salty and modern Portsmouth
While exploring Old Portsmouth, look for the stylized chain-link pattern in the sidewalk, marking the Millennium Promenade. The chain symbol recalls the great steel chain that once spanned the mouth of the harbor and was raised to block invading warships. For a pleasant stroll, I like to follow the portion of the trail south of Old Portsmouth along the oceanfront. Interpretive panels along the way give insight into Portsmouth's fascinating evolution, from its stone towers and fortifications to Clarence Pier, a Coney Island-type beach-party zone.
While many areas of Portsmouth are becoming gentrified, deep down it's still a hardworking port town with plenty of touristic value. The blustery beaches may not be as warm and sandy as Dubai's, but the city's fascinating military presence and modern attractions make Portsmouth a fun and educational stop on a trip to southern England.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: In Old Portsmouth is Broad Street 35, a boutique bed-and-breakfast with views of the sail-inspired Spinnaker Tower (splurge, www.broadstreet35.co.uk). The Duke of Buckingham pub, a few blocks inland, has 18 comfortable, basic rooms -- some out back in separate cottages (budget, www.dukeofbuckingham.co.uk).
EATING: With fantastic views of the harbor, The Still & West Country House satisfies (2 Bath Square, tel. 023/9282-1567). Spinnaker Cafe is great for lunch and has all-day breakfast (96 Broad Street, mobile 0777-295-3143).
GETTING AROUND: Portsmouth's core -- with most of its sights -- is walkable, and the D-Day Museum is a 10-minute bus ride away.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visitportsmouth.co.uk.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2016 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
