The magic of Aix-en-Provence
Cross Cours Mirabeau and head for Aix's old town, where inviting pedestrian streets hum with activity. Travelers who plan well enjoy the most vivid experience: Aix's farmers' market is a classic Provencal scene -- rustic farmers selling fresh produce under the shade of graceful plane trees. Place Richelme hosts a lively market, as it has since the 1300s. The cafes at the end of the square are ideal for savoring the market ambience: Pause for a drink at one or get a fresh-baked snack at a local "boulangerie."
Aix has a timeless, linger-longer quality. It was that way when the French king made the town his administrative capital of Provence, and it's that way today. For a tourist, it's happily free of any obligatory turnstiles. It's just a wealthy town filled with people -- most of whom, it seems, know how to live well and look good. Once you surrender to its charms, you may never want to leave.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Pavillon de la Torse is an upscale B&B in a park-like setting (splurge, www.latorse.com). Hotel des Quatre Dauphins is an Old World place in the quiet Mazarin Quarter (moderate, www.lesquatredauphins.fr).
EATING: Les Deux Garcons is a vintage French brasserie along the central boulevard (splurge, 53 Cours Mirabeau, tel. 04 42 26 00 51). Le Papagayo, on a traffic-free esplanade in the Old Town, offers a good selection of salads, daily specials and trendy burgers (moderate, 22 Place Forum des Cardeurs, tel. 04 42 23 98 35).
GETTING AROUND: The city is made for walking, though you may want to take an electric minibus (Line A) to Cezanne's studio.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.aixenprovencetourism.com.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2016 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
