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One for the Table: French food, made approachable

By Lisa Dinsmore on

Oneforthetable.com

I hate to admit it, but French food intimidates me, both eating it and cooking it. While there are plenty of "rustic" and simple classic dishes, they all seem to require a patience, focus and techniques that are hard to master for a self-taught cook. Plus, the list of ingredients can also be rather daunting.

The French make some of the most amazing food in the world, and you can't get that complexity of flavor without quality products and a passion to make them come alive. But, frankly, I rarely have the time or energy to devote to dinner, so I've often lusted from afar when it comes to actually preparing French cuisine. I will consider that amazing recipe for about 30 seconds, my mouth watering, before moving on to something far less complicated, and most assuredly less memorable.

That is, until I came across Hillary Davis's new book "French Comfort Food" (Gibbs Smith). Sure the "French" part of the title gave me a moment's pause, but the words "comfort food" caught my attention and sent my mind spinning with dreams of bread, cheese and all sorts of decadent delights -- perhaps even ones that I could create in my kitchen.

The book brings together classic, home-style recipes from her experience of living more than a decade in France (two years in Paris, 11 in the south). Some are collected from friends she made along the way, others tasted in out-of-the-way bistros and family dinners she found herself included in, and many regional dishes that you rarely see here but that are still cherished in their native land. Her love of all things French jumps from every page, and the photos make you want to immediately book a flight.

The book is separated into six sections and includes everything from starters such as pates, dips and souffles to soups and sandwiches (Croque madame? Yes, please!), to family-style entrees such as Chicken Marengo and Boeuf Bourguignon and dinner party fare like beef or cheese fondue and Mussels in White Wine. There are also plenty of recipes to satisfy everyone's sweet tooth. How does one choose between Creme Caramel, Profiteroles bathed in Chocolate Sauce, or Macarons from Nancy?

 

For added color and history, she includes a short origin story with each recipe -- how she found it and how/why she changed it -- as well as all of the equipment and pots you'll need to pull it off, which is quite helpful. This makes the recipes seem like a treasure hunt or travelogue of what you might find as you wander the countryside looking for sustenance. Not all of the recipes are complex or have a ton of ingredients --Crusty Baguette with Melted Chocolate has just two -- which is nice for beginners and a good way to get your feet wet.

This is not a diet/healthy cookbook in any way. The recipes weren't altered for that reason. Great French food uses a lot of cheese, cream and butter, and this book is no exception. If you aren't allowed to eat dairy or fat, you will find it challenging to find a recipe to cook in this book.

Thankfully, that was not a problem for me. What Davis has done with many of the recipes is simplified and distilled the process to get the same flavors, but without as much of the need for masterly techniques. It may be comfort food, but it's classy comfort food, so there is still time and effort involved to make it just right.

I have made several dishes that were quite good, but the standout was the Gratin d'Endives au Jambon. It's a similar dish to one I saw Chef Ludo Lefevbre make with his grandmother on "No Reservations" a few years back, and I have been dying to try it. It actually doesn't have many ingredients -- it's only endives wrapped in ham smothered in cheese sauce -- but there are a number of steps to making it. The result is so worth the effort. Like most simple dishes, this one comes down to the quality of the ingredients, so shop wisely. It is very rich and deeply satisfying: a perfect dinner to warm yourself on a cold fall day.

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