When the leaves start turning and the nights become longer, I know my little onions are back and ready for some good cooking. I could not be happier. Cipolline are small, flat and pale onions, with mild flesh and papery thin skins. Ranging from pale yellow to light brown, their color resembles that of Spanish onions. Cipolline are sweeter, however, containing less residual sugar than shallots but more than garden-variety white or yellow onions. Specialty markets and grocery stores have them in stock when harvested in autumn, but prices become less reasonable when these flavor-packed babies are not in season.

A benefit of cipolline for home cooks is that their shape lends them well to roasting. My Balsamic-Glazed Cipolline combines the tenderness of these onions with a syrupy vinegar glaze for a result that practically melts in your mouth. This makes for a unique substitution where you might otherwise want to use whole caramelized onions. Their seasonal flavor makes cipolline perfect for recipes like Otto Pizzeria e Enoteca's classic fall favorite: Balsamic, Onion and Goat Cheese Pizza.

The base of my pizza, an easy and versatile dough, is one that I've used for the restaurants as well as at home for years. I use the same recipe for flatbreads, both savory and sweet, and the recipe can be found in "Molto Gusto" or on mariobatali.com. I recommend making only one pizza at a time and serving each one as soon as it's done. If you need to make a lot for a large party, cook several of them once (slightly undercook them) and then reheat them in a warm oven before serving.

Balsamic, Onion and Goat Cheese Pizza

Excerpted from "Molto Gusto" by Mario Batali (ecco, 2010)

Makes 6 slices.

1 parbaked pizza crust

2 ounces creamy young goat cheese, such as Coach Farm, at room temperature

8 Balsamic-Glazed Cipolline (recipe follows)

Fresh Italian parsley leaves, for garnish

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