Tower power in Tuscany
No matter where you stay, eating dinner at one of San Gimignano's restaurants provides a fine opportunity to sample typical Tuscan home cooking. "Cinghiale" (wild boar) is made into stews, soups, and -- my favorite -- salami. The area is well-known for producing some of the best saffron in Italy; you'll find the spice for sale in shops and as a flavoring in meals at finer restaurants. Although Tuscany is normally a red-wine region, the most famous Tuscan white wine comes from here: the inexpensive, light, and fruity Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
After dinner, the empty streets are yours to savor. Enjoying San Gimignano at night gives you a chance to experience the romantic Tuscan town you've been dreaming about.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: On an untrampled side street, Palazzo al Torrione has 10 spacious and tasteful rooms (moderate, www.palazzoaltorrione.com). In the countryside below town, Ponte a Nappo has a swimming pool and fine San Gimignano views (moderate, www.accommodation-sangimignano.com).
EATING: The family-run Dulcis in Fundo Ristorante proudly cooks "revisited" Tuscan cuisine using top-quality ingredients -- many from their own farm (splurge, Vicolo degli Innocenti 21, tel. 0577-941-919). Le Vecchie Mura Ristorante serves decent home cooking with the ultimate view from their cliff-side garden terrace (moderate, Via Piandornella 15, tel. 0577-940-270).
GETTING AROUND: No driving is allowed within the walled town, so you'll have to go by foot or take the little electric shuttle bus that does laps around town.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.sangimignano.com.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2016 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
