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Lyon is famous for its state-of-the-art floodlighting, and the city hosts conventions on the topic, as well as an annual Festival of Lights in December (due to the attacks in Paris, the regular festival program is cancelled this year; instead, light displays will honor victims of the recent Paris attack). Year-round, more than 200 buildings, sites, and public spaces are gloriously floodlit every night. Go for an evening stroll and enjoy the view from Bonaparte Bridge and stop for a drink at a riverfront cafe.

For dinner, head to either the Old Town or the Presqu'ile, which each have thriving pedestrian avenues. Join the parade of restaurant shoppers and peruse the "bouchons" -- characteristic bistros which are especially fun in the evening. Lyon's restaurants and accommodations are more affordable than you'll find in Paris.

Lyon feels relaxed, welcoming, and surprisingly untouristy. It seems everyone's enjoying the place -- and they're all French.

If You Visit:

SLEEPING: Elysee Hotel, in the city center, is a simple little hotel with excellent rates and two-star comfort (moderate, www.elyseehotel.fr). The Hotel Globe et Cecil is professional and elegant, with tastefully decorated rooms and a service-oriented staff (splurge, www.globeetcecilhotel.com).

EATING: Les Retrouvailles serves tasty Lyonnaise cuisine in a charming setting under wood-beam ceilings with an open kitchen (38 Rue du BSuf, tel. 04 78 42 68 84). Bistrot de Lyon feels touristy but still bustles with authentic Lyonnaise atmosphere and reliable cuisine (64 Rue Merciere, tel. 04 78 38 47 47).

GETTING AROUND: Lyon has streetcars, Metro lines and funiculars (with tickets and one-day tickets that cover all three systems). Pedal taxis, called cyclopolitains, are used instead of traditional taxis for short trips.

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.lyon-france.com.

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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)

(c)2015 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.