Edinburgh's Royal Mile

By Rick Steves, Tribune Content Agency on Aug 11, 2015

Fortified, I continue down the Royal Mile. Finally, after centuries of history, I've reached modern times: the Scottish parliament building. After 300 years of being ruled from London, the Scots regained their own parliament in 1999, and a few years later built this striking, eco-friendly home for it. In the distance is the craggy summit called Arthur's Seat. This soaring building, mixing wild angles and bold lines, seems to be surging right out of the rock.

My last stop is the Palace of Holyroodhouse, one of Queen Elizabeth's official residences and the home of Scottish royalty, including James IV and Mary, Queen of Scots. The Scottish monarchs also kept a home at the top end of the Mile, but they preferred the cushier Holyroodhouse to the blustery castle on the rock.

I've soaked up plenty of Scottish history on my walk from castle to palace. But no Royal Mile walk is complete without dropping by a pub -- and there's no shortage of them -- where a bit of live music and whisky await.

IF YOU VISIT...

SLEEPING: Macdonald Holyrood Hotel is a classy, four-star place just up the street from the modern parliament building (splurge, www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk). Travelodge Central offers simple, no-nonsense rooms near the Royal Mile (moderate, www.travelodge.co.uk). For a more personal touch, try one of the many B-and-Bs off Dalkeith Road, about a 10-minute bus ride from the Royal Mile.

EATING: Harry Potter lovers will adore The Elephant House, the comfy neighborhood coffee shop two blocks off the Royal Mile where J.K. Rowling wrote much of her first book (21 George IV Bridge, tel. 0131/220-5355, www.elephanthouse.biz). Deacon Brodies Tavern, while touristy, is dead-center on the Royal Mile and comes with a fun history and classic pub food, including haggis (435 Lawnmarket, tel. 0131/225-6531, http://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/).

GETTING AROUND: Though most of Edinburgh's sights are within walking distance of one another, buses come in handy.

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.edinburgh.org.

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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)