Volterra: Tuscany's Top Hill Town
At night, Volterra is pretty quiet. As they have for generations, Volterrans young and old stroll during the cool of early evening. Join in, or head to an "enoteca" for a glass of Tuscan wine. For a little excitement in summer, you can venture just outside the wall to La Pista, a Tuscan family-friendly, beer garden kind of hangout that includes a DJ on weekends.
Volterra might be short on famous paintings and fast-paced nightlife, but Italy's hill towns are best enjoyed by noticing the little things and adapting to the pace of the countryside. So, slow ... down ... and savor the delights of the region -- there are plenty in my favorite Tuscan hill town.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Hotel La Locanda rents 18 stately, old-fashioned rooms in Volterra's old town (splurge, www.hotel-lalocanda.com). Albergo Etruria, right on the main drag, offers a warm welcome and a peaceful rooftop garden (moderate, www.albergoetruria.it).
EATING: Try La Carabaccia for a family-meal feel and classic Tuscan comfort food (Piazza XX Settembre 4, tel. 0588-86239). A cheap lunch spot by day and a fancier restaurant at night, La Vecchia Lira is a classy self-serve eatery that's a hit with locals (Via Matteotti 19, tel. 0588-86180).
GETTING AROUND: Volterra is compact and walkable. While the main square and main drag are fairly level, be prepared for a steep climb everywhere else.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.volterratur.it.
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(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
(c)2015 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
