Naples: Italy in your face
After you've explored the city, celebrate with pizza in the city where it originated. It seems Neapolitans are endlessly enthusiastic about discussing the fine differences between different pizzerias. My friend Vincenzo described his idea of the perfect pizza: "Melts into your mouth, goes straight through the throat and into the stomach. It does not need to be chewed."
Using traditional wood-burning ovens, Naples' pizzerias bake just the right combination of tomatoes, mozzarella, and fresh dough (soft and chewy, as opposed to Roman-style, which is thin and crispy). Ask anyone to steer you to the neighborhood pizzeria. An average one-person pie (usually the only size available) costs $5 to $10; most places offer both take-out and eat-in, and pizza is often the only thing on the menu.
Like the pizza, Naples is a delicious experience, warm and welcoming. If you don't like Naples, you're tired of life.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: The inviting Decumani Hotel de Charme is an elegant 18th-century palace with 22 rooms in the heart of the city, just off Spaccanapoli (splurge, www.decumani.com). Art Resort Galleria Umberto gilds the lily but is genteel-feeling, with aristocratic decor in the Umberto I shopping gallery (moderate, www.artresortgalleriaumberto.it).
EATING: Ecomesara serves up Neapolitan and southern Italian dishes in a modern, mellow, and international setting (Via Santa Chiara 49, tel. 081-1925-9353). Buried in the Spanish Quarter is Trattoria da Nennella, a fun-loving place offering three courses plus a fruit for $15. The atmosphere is festive, and the food is good (Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo 103, tel. 081-414-338).
GETTING AROUND: Naples' entire public transportation system -- Metro, buses, funicular, railways, and tram line -- uses the same tickets. Take advantage of this convenient system, and don't bother with a car.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.inaples.it.
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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.
(c)2014 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
