Porto: Portugal without the tourists

By Rick Steves, Tribune Content Agency on Nov 18, 2014

When dining in Porto, you'll notice that some restaurant menus have two price columns; the cheaper list is for half-portions ("meia dose" -- plenty for one person), and the higher-priced list is for full portions ("dose" -- easily feeds two people). Be warned: As is common throughout Portugal at restaurants with wait staff, waiters may bring you appetizers you didn't order; wave them away or you'll be charged for them.

Porto natives are known as "tripeiros" (tripe-eaters), compared to Lisboans who've been dubbed cabbage-eaters, but fortunately everyone in Portugal likes cod. Along with tripe, there's plenty of seafood and meat on Porto menus. A favorite sandwich is the "francesinha," which is like a Portuguese French dip with a tomato based-sauce. Picnic sandwiches and scenic perches -- for people-watching, views, or both -- are easy to come by in lively Porto.

Whether you're enjoying Ribeira's riverfront promenade, cruising the Douro, or sampling port in this port city, Porto gives you a fine taste of authentic Portuguese culture.

If You Visit:

SLEEPING:

Quality Inn Praca da Batalha offers 113 big, business-class rooms near the main train station, sharing a square with a lovely tiled church and the beginning of Porto's pedestrian shopping drag (splurge, www.choicehotelseurope.com). Hotel da Bolsa, a few blocks above the Ribeira scene, is swank and modern (moderate, www.hoteldabolsa.com). Pensao Grande Oceano, a good value in a central location, is clean and basic (cheap, www.pensaograndeoceano.com).

EATING: D’Tonho, everyone's top recommendation for a splurge, is white-tablecloth classy and serves cod and veal in huge, tasty portions (Cais da Ribeira 13). Restaurante Abadia is a bright, friendly, family diner, with two floors of happy customers dining on large, splittable portions of straightforward Portuguese cuisine (Rua do Ateneu Comercial do Porto 22).

GETTING AROUND:

Porto has buses, trams, the Metro, a funicular and some trains. Unless you're taking just a few rides, it's a good value to buy a 24-hour pass -- called Andante 24 (but it doesn't cover trams or funiculars -- which you pay for as you board). Taxis are affordable.

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visitporto.travel.

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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.