The Dingle Peninsula: Pure Ireland
Rounding Slea Head, the point in Europe closest to America, the jagged coastline offers smashing views of deadly black-rock cliffs and the distant Blasket Islands. The crashing surf races in like white horses.
The tip of the peninsula is marked by a crucifix. It faces the sea, but about half the time, it's actually confronting an impenetrable cloud, whipping sheets of rain. I imagine that Dingle cows have thicker eyelids, evolved over the centuries to survive sideways rain.
The Gallarus Oratory, a 1,300-year-old stone church, is famously watertight -- unless the rain is hosing in sideways. I've been splattered inside. I've driven over Conor Pass with the visibility at zero, ragamuffin sheep nonchalantly appearing like ghosts in the milky cloud. I've huddled, awaiting a chance to step out, in farmhouses abandoned in the Great Famine. Yes, the weather is a force on the Dingle Peninsula, but when the sun does come out, everything rejoices.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Greenmount House has superb B-and-B rooms and commands a fine view of the bay and mountains (splurge, www.greenmounthouse.ie). Eileen Collins Kirrary B-and-B, which takes up a quiet corner in the town center, is run by the same Collins family that does archaeological tours of the peninsula (moderate, collinskirrary(at)eircom.net).
Greenmount House has superb B-and-B rooms and commands a fine view of the bay and mountains (splurge, www.greenmounthouse.ie). For a kid-friendly space, try Tower View B-and-B, a mini-farm with comfortable rooms a 15-minute drive from Dingle (moderate, www.towerviewdingle.com). In the quiet village of Ballyferriter, Hotel Ostan Ceann Sibeal offers spacious rooms, many with countryside views (moderate, www.ceannsibealhotel.com).
EATING: John Benny Moriarty's serves up traditional Irish pub grub and live music (The Pier, www.johnbennyspub.com). Out of the Blue Seafood-Only Restaurant is the locals' choice for just plain great fresh fish (Waterside, www.outoftheblue.ie). West of Dingle on the Slea Head loop road, The Stonehouse is an appealing lunch or dinner option, with sea views (www.stonehouseventry.com).
GETTING AROUND: Dingle is a great walking town -- nothing is more than 15 minutes away. There are plenty of bike-rental shops for those ambitious enough to cycle the peninsula.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.dingle-peninsula.ie.
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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.
(c)2014 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
