Evolving Lisbon -- trolleys, fado and Old World color
One welcome evolution is the kiosk cafe ("quiosque" in Portuguese), a standard feature of squares and viewpoints all over town. These old renovated newsstands are now mini-restaurants surrounded by tables and chairs, creating neighborhood hangouts and places for al fresco dining. Judging by the crowds I saw enjoying the spring sunshine, the Portuguese economy is showing signs of happiness.
Though ever-changing, Lisbon's heritage survives. With a rich culture, stunning vistas, friendly people, and a salty setting on the edge of Europe, Portugal remains a rewarding destination for travelers.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Hotel Avenida Palace, the most characteristic five-star hotel in town, has elegant rooms with 21st-century comforts (splurge, www.hotelavenidapalace.pt). Grande Pensao Alcobia offers 42 crisp rooms, some with views of Sao Jorge Castle (moderate, www.pensaoalcobia.com).
EATING: Canto do Camoes accompanies its dishes with live "fado" music (Travessa da Espera 38, tel. 213-465-464). Aqui Ha Peixe serves quality fish dishes under antique arches (Rua da Trindade 18A, tel. 213-432-154).
GETTING AROUND: The best way to explore is by foot, but trolleys and funiculars provide fun, practical transport (www.carris.pt). Lisbon is also a great taxi town, and has a fast, simple subway system.
FOR TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visitlisboa.com.
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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.
(c)2014 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
