Dazzling St. Petersburg

By Rick Steves, Tribune Content Agency on Feb 4, 2014

While a rigid post-Soviet mentality still grips many aspects of Russian life, things have eased up. For example, everyday Russians are allowed to travel more freely than ever before. And people embrace the world through the Internet. A local told me: "Religion was the opiate of the masses in the old days; vodka was the opiate in Soviet times; and today, the Internet is the opiate of the masses."

Travelers to St. Petersburg see an evolving city. By creating this city out of swampland, Peter the Great declared a new direction for his country and his people, moving toward a world of culture, arts and science. With some fits and starts, his vision is turning into a vibrant reality, making historic St. Petersburg well worth a visit.

IF YOU VISIT...

SLEEPING: The handsome Pushka Inn is just steps from the Hermitage Museum (splurge, www.pushkainn.ru). The M Hotel has a quiet courtyard setting (moderate, www.mhotelspb.ru); the Hotel Kristoff is in a respectable residential neighborhood (moderate, www.kristoff.ru/en).

EATING: The self-serve Teremok has all the Russian standards (Nevsky Prospekt 60). Try Zoom Cafe for solid Russian cuisine at good prices (just off Griboyedova Canal, at Gorokhovaya Ulitsa 22), Russian Vodka Room No. 1 for a fancier restaurant with classy food and service (Konnogvardeisky Bulvar 4) and Cafe Ne Goryui for Georgian food (Kirpichny Pereulok 3).

GETTING AROUND: Get to know Nevsky Prospekt, St. Petersburg's main street. Almost everything you'll want to see is either along Nevsky or a few blocks to either side. To cross the river or go to more distant sites, use the city's excellent subway system. Buses are quick and handy, but aren't user-friendly for non-Russian speakers.

RUSSIAN VISAS: Visitors from the United States and Canada must obtain a visa in advance to enter Russia (www.russianembassy.org). Exceptions are made for travelers arriving by cruise ship, who may enter the country without a visa if they are accompanied by a local tour operator.

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.visit-petersburg.ru.

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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.