Spain's Toledo is a living monument
After dinner, I like to enjoy a tasty leftover from Toledo's Moorish days, almond-fruity mazapan. Shops all over town sell mazapan goodies in ready-made gift boxes, but I prefer to select my own. For an evening finale, I take my treats to Plaza del Ayuntamiento and find a bench. The fountain burbles to my right, Spain's best-looking City Hall is at my back, and before me is her top cathedral -- built back when Toledo was Spain's capital, and still shining brightly against the black night sky.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: The Parador de Toledo, about two miles outside of town, offers guests the same Toledo view that El Greco made famous (splurge, www.parador.es). Hospederia de los Reyes offers colorful, thoughtfully appointed rooms just outside Toledo's wall (budget, www.hospederiadelosreyes.com).
EATING: Los Cuatro Tiempos Restaurante ("The Four Seasons") specializes in local game and roasts, proficiently served in a tasteful and elegant setting (Sixto Ramon Parro 5, tel. 925-223-782). Adolfo Vinoteca is the wine bar of a highly respected local chef. If the Starship Enterprise had a Spanish wine-and-tapas bar on its holodeck, this would be it (Calle Nuncio Viejo 1, tel. 925-224-244).
GETTING AROUND: Toledo itself is best on foot, but public bus no. 12 can be handy if you run out of steam. The cheesy Tren Imperial Tourist Tram is a fine way for non-drivers to enjoy views of the city from across the Tajo River Gorge.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.toledo-turismo.com.
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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.
(c)2013 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
