Warm cheese deserves all the love. From the pull of mozzarella on pizza, to molten cheese fondue, to the buttery goodness of queso fundido piled on a tortilla, few foods prove more satisfying. Light it on fire at one of Chicago’s iconic Greek restaurants and everyone thrills.

Grilled halloumi cheese first came on our radar a few years ago in London. There, we dined on a warm and satisfying meatless grilled halloumi wrap at a stand in the multicultural Borough Market. Halloumi, a fresh white cheese from Cyprus made from goat and sheep’s milk, sports a lovely milky-salty flavor. The firm, low-fat cheese has a high melting point, perfect for grilling and frying as it sears, but doesn’t really melt. When hot, halloumi has a pleasing bouncy texture.

In recent years, the imported cheese has gained in popularity in the United States. Domestic halloumi and cow’s milk versions often are available as well. Look for halloumi in supermarkets with a large cheese section or in Mediterranean grocery stores. Substitutes include Mexican-style queso panela and Indian paneer cheese as these warm easily without really melting.

Cut into thick sticks, halloumi “fries” add a lean protein element to salads and as an accompaniment to bowls of soup. Served warm or at room temperature, they satisfy mightily with a dip such as yogurt-based tzatziki or as a snack with a piece of fruit.

For a meatless dinner, serve this hearty chickpea and tomato dish topped with dollops of spicy Middle Eastern zhoug sauce and a pile of crispy halloumi fries. Be sure to serve slices of crusty bread to mop up all the delicious pan juices.

Crispy Halloumi Fries

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1 block, 8 to 10 ounces halloumi cheese, queso panela or paneer cheese

Vegetable oil for high-heat cooking, such as expeller-pressed canola, safflower or sunflower oil

Tzatziki sauce, for dipping, optional

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