The first time I tucked into a bowl of steaming mussels I was hooked. Their briny flavor and tender meat were a sublime combination. I was visiting a friend's house, and not only did she make the mussels in a shallot-flavored broth but she also baked French baguettes to enjoy with them. The dinner was memorable, but for me I'd rather leave the bread making to a bakery. Mussels are one of those dishes that are easy and quick to put together and fun to eat.

On a visit to Brussels, my husband and I spent as much time in the central square eating mussels and thin, crispy french fries as we did visiting the sights. We were a bit like homing pigeons, finding our way back to the cafes lining the square trying different versions. One thing we learned was how to eat mussels. Once you have opened one shell and eaten the mussel, use the shell, almost like tongs or tweezers, to pull out the remaining mussels from their shell. Dip the mussel meat in the sauce and enjoy.

These classically prepared mussels are delicious served with crispy french fries; but if fries aren't in your cooking time frame, how about tiny roasted potatoes? You can use black mussels or the New Zealand Green Lip mussels for this recipe. You'll find that most fish markets today sell cultivated mussels that have little or no beard so they are much easier to clean.

When choosing mussels, select those with tightly closed shells (open shells mean the mussels are dying). You can store the mussels in a deep bowl and cover with a damp kitchen towel and refrigerate for up to one day. Before cooking, scrub the shells with a stiff-bristled brush under cold running water. To cut off the beard (a thick fibrous tuft at the edge of the shell), use a small knife or kitchen scissors

I like to serve these as a main course for a casual dinner. Serve a simple green salad with mustard lemon vinaigrette. And, of course, don't forget the crusty French bread. Try a crisp white wine like a sauvignon blanc or muscadet to accompany the mussels.

Variations:

--Provence-style: Add a cup of fire-roasted diced tomatoes and 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil to Step 1.

--Add a cup of fresh breadcrumbs to the stock mixture when boiling to give the broth a thicker texture, if desired.

--Add a few tablespoons of whipping cream to the stock for a richer flavor

Moules Mariniere (Sailor-Style Mussels)

Serves 6 as a first course or 2 to 4 as a main course

2 cups dry white wine

6 shallots, minced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 bay leaf

4 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 pounds mussels, well cleaned (scrubbed and soaked)

A crusty French baguette or favorite garlic bread, for serving

1. Bring the wine, shallots, garlic, bay leaf, 2 tablespoons parsley, black pepper and butter to a boil in a large stock pot on medium-high heat for about 4 to 5 minutes or until the broth is aromatic and simmering.

2. Add the cleaned mussels, cover tightly and steam them until they open, about 5 minutes. Hold the stockpot with both handles and shake the mussels occasionally so that they can cook evenly.

3. Spoon the mussels into large soup bowls, spoon some broth over them and sprinkle with the remaining parsley. Serve immediately with bread for dipping.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including "Seriously Simple Parties," and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)