A flat, snap-type pole bean, Romanos are not to be confused with Borlotti beans, an Italian shelling variety. Depending on the specific cultivar, Romano beans can be purple, yellow or green. I'm hardly adverse to any bean, but I do love Romano, green or wax beans in dishes like this one, when simply blanched and paired with anchovy paste for a great textural combination.

All three of these varieties are available year-round, but peak in tender deliciousness throughout summer. Rather than packaged beans, try to buy beans that are sold loose, resulting in the freshest pods. The spicy lime spritz in this recipe from "Molto Batali" (Ecco, 2011) contributes that hint of acidity, which heightens freshness as well. I also like to spice the beans up a bit with a hit of hot red pepper flakes and pungent red onion.

I can feel that bittersweet sting in the air as summer comes to an end and fall approaches. What better send off than the gift of local beans with a spicy citrus flare to keep us in the spirit of those long, hot nights?

One cool way to serve these beans is to make a row of them on a warmed platter and effortlessly spoon the lime spritz on top. But, if you really want to treat this summer dish with the respect it deserves, serve these beans as a family-style appetizer and just dig in with your fingers.

SUMMER BEANS WITH A SPICY LIME SPRITZ

Serves 8 to 10 as a side dish

2 pounds Romano, green or wax beans

Salt

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 medium red onions, chopped into 1/8-inch dice

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