I'm taking a chance with this summer pasta, as a good percentage of newcomers to my restaurants do not even know what bottarga is. But let me give you a full disclaimer: Once this exotic, Italian flavor hits your lips, you'll be coming back for more.

A special roe of bluefin tuna or red mullet, bottarga is traditionally grated, shaved or sliced, then sprinkled on antipasto or pasta. Food, like most things, is best when left to its own simple beauty, and bottarga is no exception. I prefer it served with the simplest ingredients I can find, thus the linguine, zucchini and yellow squash in the following recipe from "Molto Gusto" (Ecco, 2010).

In a land far and away known as the '80s, bottarga was only seen scantily scattered throughout the United States in the chicest of expensive restaurants. Today, not only can you find this ingredient in restaurants across the globe, but you can even order it directly to your home. I use mail-order services available through Market Hall Foods (www.markethallfoods.com) for importing specialty products like this one to our restaurants.

Most often, bottarga is imported from Pescasarda, Sardinia on the Italian coastline of the Mediterranean Sea. In addition to its incredible sandy beaches and mountainous hiking landscape, the large island of Sardinia is home to the first and most authentic bottarga factory in the world. The island has seen over two hundred spawning periods, when red mullet and bluefin tuna are caught in nets between April and June on their way to coastal waters. The roe sections are then removed from the fish and undergo a one-month salt cure. Lastly, the roe is dried and pressed into blocks for three months of air sealing in plastic Cryovac packages, which keep the bottarga fresh.

Once the bottarga arrives to my kitchen, I remove it from the package and let it sit in room temperature air for five to six hours. When its full flavorful fragrance is restored, I grate it and sprinkle over my linguine with zucchini and bottarga.

LINGUINE WITH ZUCCHINI & BOTTARGA

Serves 6

Kosher salt

1D4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 medium red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

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