Maldon or other flaky sea salt

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

Coarsely ground black pepper

Kosher salt

1 pound pennette pasta

3D4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving

1D2 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs, fried in olive oil until golden brown

Combine the oil, onion, garlic and chard in a large pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion and chard are beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Season well with Maldon salt, add 1D4 cup water, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chard is very tender, about 20 minutes. Add the butter, stirring until it melts, then season with pepper and remove from the heat. (The ragu can be prepared up to 2 days ahead. Let cool, then cover and refrigerate; reheat in a large pot over medium-low heat before adding the pasta.)

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Drop in the pasta and cook until just al dente.

Drain the pasta, reserving about 1D2 cup of the pasta water. Add the pasta and 1D4 cup of the reserved pasta water to the chard ragu and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Stir in the cheese.

Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl and scatter the breadcrumbs over the top. Serve with additional grated Parmigiano on the side.

(Mario Batali is the award-winning chef behind twenty-four restaurants including Eataly, DelPosto, and his flagship Greenwich Village enoteca, Babbo.)