TheKitchn.com

I've never met a potato salad that I didn't like. Use mayo or Greek yogurt, season it with dill or throw in some Kalamata olives and sundried tomatoes -- they're all good. And since no cookout, picnic or backyard party is complete without a giant bowl of potato salad on the table, there are ample opportunities every summer to try them all.

Today, let's pare it down to the basics and talk about how to make an easy, classic, all-American potato salad. You can serve this one just as it is or use the recipe as a jumping off point for the potato salad of your dreams.

The No. 1 concern when making potato salad is picking and cooking the potatoes. This is potato salad after all! Waxy potatoes are really the best choice here; they hold their shape after cooking and have a soft, creamy texture. Red-skinned potatoes like Red Bliss are my stand-by for salads. For a slightly softer "mashed" texture in your salad, you can also try using any all-purpose potato; these have a good balance of waxy and starchy characteristics.

When it comes to cooking the potatoes, I take the traditional approach: chop them up and simmer them in water until tender. I usually leave the skins on when I make potato salad -- I like the spots of color they add to the dish, plus they're thin enough that they're usually quite tender. If you'd prefer to peel your potatoes, it's easiest to boil them whole and then peel and cut them into chunks.

Classically, mayonnaise and mustard are used to bind together those tender chunks, while celery and shallots add some crunch. Fresh herbs or diced scallions give the salad fresh flavor. Many traditional potato salad recipes also fold in some diced hard-cooked eggs; personally, I like to keep things focused on the potatoes and save the eggs for egg salad, but the choice is yours. Of course, all these ingredients can be tweaked, added, subtracted or otherwise toyed with to your heart's content. This basic recipe and technique are yours to play with.

Finally, a public safety note: If you're planning to serve potato salad at an outdoor gathering, keep it out of sunshine and don't leave it out for longer than 4 hours. Potato salad is notorious for giving hapless picnickers a bout of food poisoning! It's not actually the mayo that goes bad (mayonnaise is acidic enough to prevent bacteria from growing) but rather the potatoes themselves, which make a perfect medium for bacteria growth. Be safe, everyone!

Potato Salad

Serves 6 to 8 as a side dish (makes about 7 cups).

2 pounds waxy potatoes, such as red-skinned potatoes

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon mustard

2 ribs celery, diced (about 3/4 cup)

1 large shallot or 1/4 small onion, minced (about 1/4 cup)

1/4 cup diced scallions, parsley, tarragon or dill, plus extra to garnish

3 large eggs, hard-cooked and diced (optional)

Salt and pepper, to taste

Equipment:

Cutting board

Chef's knife

Medium-sized pot

Strainer

Mixing bowl

Spatula or long-handled spoon

Plastic wrap

1. Wash and scrub any grit from the potatoes. Cut them into large bite-sized chunks. (Alternatively, boil the potatoes whole, then peel and/or dice them after cooking.)

2. Transfer the potatoes to a medium-sized pot. Cover with an inch of water and stir in a teaspoon of salt.

3. Bring the water to a simmer over medium-high heat; adjust the heat to keep the water at a gentle simmer. Cook until the potatoes are tender all the way through when pierced with a fork, 8 to 12 minutes (the time will vary depending on the size of your cubes and the type of potatoes).

4. Drain the potatoes and rinse them under cool water. Transfer them to a mixing bowl.

5. Add the mayonnaise and the mustard to the potatoes. Mix well.

6. Add the celery, shallots, scallions (or herbs), and eggs (if using) to the bowl with the potatoes. Stir until thoroughly combined. Taste a bite of the salad; add salt and pepper to season and more of any of the other ingredients to taste. This recipe is a base template; add more or use less of anything to your taste.

7. Serve the salad while still warm, or cover and refrigerate for up to a day before serving.

(Emma Christensen is recipe editor for TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to kitchn@apartmenttherapy.com.)