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ArcaMax Publishing > Home & Garden > Recipes > Robert Whitley Wine Tasting

Italy Grows Respect for White Wines of the North

I was recently intrigued by an Eric Asimov column in the New York Times that scoped out Vermentino, a white wine produced widely in Italy's Sardinia and Tuscany districts. Asimov made the point that Italy is awash in white wine, yet conventional wisdom tends to only recognizes the red wines of Italy.

This reminded me of a long-ago debate with another colleague about the importance of white wine to Italian viticulture. It is true enough that Chianti, which is red, would be the first wine that comes to mind when the conversation turns to Italian wine.

I believe that has everything to do with those cute straw baskets that encased the Chianti bottles of my youth. If you are of a certain age, you might remember dumping the dregs (these wines were not so good that you savored them to the last drop) so you could ram a candle down the neck.

Those days are long gone and, indeed, the wines of the Chianti region today are world class. Yet as I survey the Italian winescape and give Tuscany (encompassing the Chianti district, the Brunellos of Montalcino and the Vino Nobile of Montepulciano) and Piedmont (source of Barolo and Barberesco, wonderful reds made from the Nebbiolo grape) their due, I can't help but notice that a couple of major wine regions, Alto-Adige and Friuli, are given almost exclusively to the production of white wine.

These two districts are located in northern Italy, at the base of the Alps, and produce the lion's share of the finest pinot grigios consumed in the United States. Combined with the nearby Veneto, Trentino and Delle Venezie -- areas that make more commercial pinot grigio -- this represents a huge swath of Italian vineyard land that depends on white grapes more than red.

In both Alto-Adige and Friuli this is by necessity, for the climate in those regions will hardly ripen red grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, both of which require long, warm summers, and even then are usually among the last grapes harvested. What performs well is pinot grigio, pinot bianco (pinot blanc), sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and, in friuli, a fragrant white grape called friulano (formerly tocai friulano).

Outside of Italy, there is a general lack of awareness of the preponderance of white grapes in these northernmost regions, largely because most importers tap only the pinot grigio for the U.S. market, despite the fact that many high- quality Italian chardonnays and sauvignon blancs are as fine as any in the world.

Over the years I have come to be fond of numerous producers of white wine in this area, though sourcing at retail, even in a large city, can be frustrating at times. Most truly top-notch nouveau Italian restaurants will list wines from these stalwarts of northern Italian wine:

Alois Lageder -- The man and the winery, located in Alto Adige in the foothills of the Alps, are one and the same. Lageder's pinot grigio is distinctive, with more heft and texture than much of the mass-produced pinot grigio that is currently popular. He utilizes organic and biodynamic practices in his vineyards, and the winemaking is impeccable.

Pighin -- Passionate about quality, the Pighin pinot grigio, sauvignon and friulano are among my favorites from Friuli.

Livio Fellugua -- This legendary winemaker (his son Andrea actually makes the wines now that Livio is up in years) is well-known for his merlot, but it is produced in small amounts. The whites, particularly the pinot grigio, sauvignon and the white blend Terre Alte, are the stars of the show.

Villa Russiz -- This outstanding winery is owned by Livio Felluga's brother, Marco, and the two are fierce rivals. It's always a lively debate when the topic turns to which is better.

Jermann -- All of the Jermann wines are superb, but the chardonnay stands out because it is consistently among Italy's top five chardonnays.

Bertani -- Famous for its sturdy reds, Bertani nevertheless makes exceptional pinot grigio, sauvignon and a proprietary white blend, Due Uve, which is in great demand.

Inama -- I would be remiss if I didn't call attention to Inama, which is famous for its Soave. That may seem a contradiction in terms, but Inama plants on the hillsides and reduces yields to create a Soave that is unlike any other. It is certainly one of the finest white wines of northern Italy.

Pieropan -- Another producer from the Veneto that treats Soave with great respect and achieves superb results. While not at the same level as Inama, Pieropan comes very close and is less expensive.

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BEST BUYS

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Kenwood 2008 Pinot Gris, Sonoma County ($16) -- Yet another winner in Kenwood's Sonoma County appellation lineup, the pinot gris is a fresh, juicy crowd-pleaser that will be equally at home as a stand-alone cocktail or with steamed shellfish, savory pasta sauces or grilled sea bass. Rating: 88.

Kali Hart 2007 Pinot Noir, Monterey County ($19) -- Pinot noir presents an economic challenge for socially active wine enthusiasts. Everybody is into drinking it, but it's prohibitively expensive to serve at a party or any kind of a large gathering. That said, there are exceptions. Kali Hart is Talbott's second vineyard and ends up with exceptional grapes simply because Talbott can't cope with everything it grows. The '07 shows lovely, delicate red cherry fruit, blueberry and spice. It's well balanced and easy to drink. And the price is right, even for a crowd. Rating: 87.

Kenwood 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($13) -- Kenwood's sauvignon has become one of California's most reliable value wines. It always exhibits fresh grapefruit, good balance and a juicy, clean finish. I can drink it all day, and often do. Rating: 87.

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TASTING NOTES

Craggy Range 2007 Te Muna Road Vineyard Pinot Noir, New Zealand ($39) -- I'm seduced by the earthy minerality of this wine, but there is much more to it than that, beginning with a nose of violets and plums, hints of spice and mocha, and a generous flesh wrapped around a firm acid backbone. An attractive pinot for serving now, but the structure will reward those with the patience to lay it down for five to seven years. Rating: 93.

Craggy Range 2007 Zebra Vineyard Pinot Noir, New Zealand ($39) -- Fleshier than the other new pinot releases from Craggy Range, the '07 Zebra Vineyard nevertheless offers the distinctive minerality and attractive floral nuance that marks all of the Craggy Range pinots. The flavor profiles trends toward blacks fruits, and the finish shows seductive notes of spice and savory herbs. Rating: 92.

Freemark Abbey 2007 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($20) -- Hard to believe you can find a Napa Valley chardonnay this good for this price. It has everything I want in a chardonnay without having too much of any one thing: Lovely aromas of pear, apple and lemon creme, hints of spice, solid acid backbone and a lingering finish. Rating: 91.

Yangarra 2007 'Cadenzia', Australia ($25) -- Cadenzia is a GSM (grenaches, syrah and mourvedre), a popular blend of Rhone-style grapes produced throughout Australia, and this is one of the good ones. It shows exceptional depth and power, a blend of red and black fruits and good persistence of flavor through the finish. The only off-note is the slight presence of drying wood tannin. Drink it young and don't look back! Rating: 90.

Ehlers Estate 2996 Merlot, St. Helena ($45) -- If powerful Napa Valley reds are your thing, and you don't want to shell out $70 or $100 for a rockin' cabernet, the Ehlers merlot offers plenty of heft, complex aromas of black cherry, plum, spice and fragrant herbs. The ample tannins are plump and sweet, making this bruiser easy to drink despite nearly 15 percent alcohol. Rating: 90.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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This news arrived on: 08/25/2009

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