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Undiscovered Erfurt

By Rick Steves, Tribune Media Services on

My walk through Erfurt culminated on the vast Cathedral Square, dominated by twin churches -- the Church of St. Severus and the cathedral where Martin Luther was ordained a priest. As I soaked up the scene, I was enveloped by the sounds of an opera troupe rehearsing on the square while the dark churches rung with the sound of pipe organists practicing.

For me, as a Lutheran, coming to Erfurt is a bit like a Catholic going to Rome. Without the pivotal accomplishments of the Reformation, the Bible would still be read in Latin and interpreted for us by priests. The 500th anniversary of Martin Luther kicking off the Reformation in 1517 is quickly approaching, and towns like Erfurt will enjoy lots of attention. But until then, visitors can enjoy this delightful slice of simple, unspoiled Germany in peace.

IF YOU VISIT:

SLEEPING: The Evangelisches Augustinerkloster, Martin Luther's monastery, rents 51 simple rooms right on the monastery grounds (moderate, www.augustinerkloster.de). Pension Rad-Hof, next to the monastery, isn't fancy but feels homey (budget, www.rad-hof.de).

EATING: Zum Guldenen Rade ("At the Golden Wheel") offers classic German and Thuringian cuisine in an appealing beer garden out back (Marktstrasse 50, tel. 0361/561-3506). Feuerkugel serves up good, traditional Thuringian cooking from "Oma Kathe" -- Granny Katie (Michaelisstrasse 3-4, tel. 0361/789-1256).

 

GETTING AROUND: Erfurt has a straightforward tram network, though it's unlikely you'll need it in this walkable town.

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.erfurt-tourismus.de.

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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.


(c)2012 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.

 

 

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