A blitz tour of Madrid

By Rick Steves, Tribune Media Services on Jul 10, 2012

With more than 3,000 canvases, including entire rooms of masterpieces by superstar painters, the Prado can be overwhelming. A $215 million expansion, completed in 2007, made this museum more visitor-friendly. A new wing holds a modern cafe, auditorium, and gift shop -- freeing up exhibition space in the original building for more art. But it still gets crowded. To avoid the hordes, keep in mind that lunchtime and weekdays are generally less packed. It's always crowded in the evenings, when it's free after 6 p.m., and on weekends; it's worth paying the entry price on other days to have your space.

As I walk back to my hotel on the Puerta del Sol, I reflect on this bustling capital -- Europe's highest, at 2,000 feet. Despite the economic uncertainty, today's Madrid is vibrant. Even the living-statue street performers have a twinkle in their eyes. Lively Madrid has enough street-singing, bar-hopping, and people-watching vitality to give any visitor a boost. After every trip to this exciting city, the impression I take home is that of a thriving people with an enduring culture.

IF YOU VISIT:

SLEEPING: Madrid has plenty of centrally located budget hotels and pensiones. Near Plaza Mayor, the Petit Palace Posada del Peine is a modern business-class hotel behind an Old World facade (splurge, www.hthoteles.com). Hotel Europa -- with its sleek marble walls, red carpet, and attentive staff -- is a tremendous value (moderate, www.hoteleuropa.net).

EATING: For dinner, Restaurante Casa Paco is a Madrid tradition; try its signature dish -- ox grilled over a coal fire (tel. 913-663-166). For tapas, I like Txakolina Pintxoteca Madrilena, which serves Basque-style "pinchos" -- bite-sized treats (tel. 913-664-877).

GETTING AROUND: The historic core around Puerta del Sol is easily covered on foot. But if you're hot or tired, Madrid's Metro is simple, speedy, and cheap (www.metromadrid.es).

TOURIST INFORMATION: www.esmadrid.com.

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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.