8 ounces picked crab meat, fresh or thawed if frozen

1 pound dried or fresh fettuccine or tagliatelle pasta

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for pasta

1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)

1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes (10 to 11 ounces)

Fresh ground black pepper

1. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, finely chop 1 medium shallot, 4 garlic cloves, and 1 anchovy fillet. Tear fresh basil leaves and finely chop fresh chives until you have 2 tablespoons each for garnish. Pick through 8 ounces cooked crab meat for shells.

2. Add 1 pound pasta to the boiling water and cook according to package instructions until just al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain.

3. Melt 4 tablespoons of the unsalted butter in a large high-sided skillet over medium heat. Continue cooking until the butter is browned and nutty-smelling, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the shallot, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon of the kosher salt. Cook until the shallot is starting to turn translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the anchovy and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes more.

4. Add 1/4 cup dry white wine and cook until almost evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add 1 pint cherry tomatoes and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, and cook until the tomatoes begin to burst and are tender, about 5 minutes.

5. Press on a few tomatoes with the back of a spoon to break them. Add the crab meat and toss to break up any clumps. Add the pasta, remaining 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and 1/4 cup of the pasta water. Toss with tongs until the mixture is evenly mixed and a silky sauce coats the noodles, adding more pasta water a tablespoon at a time as needed. Taste and season with kosher salt as needed. Transfer to plates and top with the basil, chives and freshly ground black pepper.

Recipe note: Water or seafood stock can be used in place of white wine.

(Amelia Rampe is the studio food editor for TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to editorial@thekitchn.com.)

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