Do you know the meaning of Cinco de Mayo? It’s a holiday that commemorates when the Mexican army defeated the French in the Battle of Puebla against overwhelming odds in 1862. Puebla and many U.S. cities have huge celebrations with parades, festivals and dancing. And, of course, food!

Each year I observe this holiday with an array of fabulous Mexican food, such as these citrus-marinated pork tacos enhanced with side dishes of guacamole, sour cream and salsa. The marinade brings out the sweetness of the pork along with a zesty touch of oregano and cumin. They are always a major crowd-pleaser.

In California, you can find every type of taco imaginable, including turkey, duck, filet of beef — even sweetbreads. Pork tacos are my favorite. The distinctive arrangement of the ingredients on the plate is characteristically Californian.

Marinated grilled pork is cut into bite-size pieces and, along with guacamole, sour cream, grilled green onions, cilantro and salsas, is arranged colorfully and artistically. The fresh corn tortillas are soft, so they can be rolled with the filling ingredients inside. The meat is best when barbecued but it can also be roasted. Although beer and margaritas work well, a crisp fume blanc is also refreshing.

Pork Tacos, California Style

Serves 6

For the marinade:

1/2 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano or 1/2 teaspoon dried leaf

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