A cheesecake is one of those desserts either you love or it's just not your thing. I've never been a fan, as classic cheesecake tends to be dense and heavy. However, I think it may be one of those desserts that is a childhood taste memory for some. And enjoying a New York-style cheesecake can be comforting to others.

As a Californian, I rarely had cheesecake on my radar; that is, until I came across this treasured recipe years ago. I have been serving it ever since.

This version is light and fluffy and souffle-like, because the eggs are separated and the whites are whipped into soft clouds. This lightens the mixture and produces a mashup of a souffle and a cheesecake. Remember to use clean beaters and a clean bowl so egg whites can whip properly.

I like to use pastry flour, because you don't have to let it rest before working it; it has a low gluten count and turns out a flakier crust. All-purpose flour works fine if you can't find pastry flour. If you use frozen butter, you don't have to chill it before using since it is already cold.

I sometimes call this the St. Andreas Cheesecake because it can occasionally develop a fault line in the center. Not to worry -- just sprinkle powdered sugar over any of the cracks on top and decorate, if desired, with your favorite berries for a beautiful presentation. This cake is supremely light, and the raisins, Marsala and lemon rind give it a fruity balance. Serve this at room temperature for optimum flavor and texture. Sometimes I will serve small dessert glasses of Marsala with the cake for a lovely after dinner experience.

Cheesecake Souffle

Serves 8

For the pastry:

1 cup pastry or all-purpose flour

Pinch salt

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