As summer begins to wind down, I like to take advantage of the sweet corn varieties that are being harvested. I often visit my corn stand, which will stay open until late October. It's true that you can find really good corn in your supermarket now, but I love the tradition of visiting a corn and tomato stand. It feels folksy and fun. And the produce is usually exceptional.

I always ask if I can taste a kernel to make sure it is just-picked and not starchy. When selecting corn, you can squeeze it, starting at the bottom with the husk on, to make sure it feels firm, the kernels feel plump and no kernels are missing. Also, the husk should be bright green, wrapped tightly against the corn and slightly damp. These tips should help you pick great corn for this pudding. I have found you can use either white or yellow corn with equally good results.

I have combined two of my favorite flavors, corn and sharp cheddar, for this Seriously Simple side dish. Talk about easy: Most of the ingredients are pureed in the blender, and then the remaining whole corn kernels are added and shredded cheddar is scattered on top.

I think of this as a versatile, savory side dish that is just the right accompaniment to any barbecued meat, poultry or fish. I like to cut the pudding into squares and serve it right from the baking dish, but I have also served it in rounds with sauteed or grilled shrimp or scallops sitting atop the creamy corn pudding. Just use a 2- or 3-inch round cutter.

This pudding is really a cross between spoon bread and a corn souffle. A small amount of corn meal and flour are added to keep the mixture together, making sure that the fresh corn is the star of this dish. I like blending half of the corn and leaving the other half of the corn kernels whole in the pudding mixture. And the sharp cheddar adds a savory note to the sweet corn medley.

There are so many variations you can do with this dish. If you like things spicy, you can add a few tablespoons of your favorite chiles. Hatch chiles would be a lovely addition. You could also add a chile-flecked cheddar cheese. Sometimes I saute a chopped leek and diced red pepper and add it to the blended mixture. You can't go wrong if you follow this recipe; just make sure you have a group to share it with, since it makes enough for a crowd.

Cheddar Corn Pudding

Serves 8 to 10

Butter for greasing the pan

4 cups corn kernels, about 4 large ears of corn, divided

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