I am big on making stews. What are the techniques that will produce a rich flavored stew? In a nutshell, it is using good broth, browning the meat without crowding it (even if you need to do it in batches), letting the flavors develop through slow cooking, and preparing in advance so all of the tastes come together.

After college, I traveled throughout Europe and ended up in Vienna for a few weeks while waiting for a visa to Prague. It was November and very cold. I ordered a meat stew called goulash in a small family restaurant and then ordered it every day thereafter, trying to see what secret ingredients I could discern. Caraway seeds, red pepper and paprika were the key. I loved the dish's hearty flavor, and the finishing swirl of sour cream made it irresistible.

To give an authentic flavor to this savory stew, look for Hungarian sweet paprika in the spice section of well-stocked supermarkets or specialty-food stores. Unlike most mild American paprika, which adds little but color, this dark red powder has a rich, aromatic flavor that captures the essence of the dried and milled paprika peppers from which it is made. Hungarian paprika is produced in five grades based on piquancy and heat; the sweet type, called for in this recipe, is the most versatile and easiest to find.

This is perfect for a chilly night along with some really good country bread and a simple green salad. You could also ladle the stew onto a bed of egg noodles in shallow pasta bowls. And one more thing: If you love soup, you can easily transform this recipe into goulash soup by exchanging the 3 cups of broth for 8 cups of broth. The soup will feed six.

Goulash

Serves 4 to 6

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 medium leeks, cleaned, white and light green part only, finely chopped

2 teaspoons caraway seeds

1 red pepper, seeded and chopped

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