ArcaMax

With Fourth of July a week away and summer grilling season in full swing, home cooks keep asking me for advice on the best way to cook steaks outdoors. They think I possess some magical secrets for success, especially now that I have my own popular steakhouse, CUT, at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel in Beverly Hills.

In fact, achieving steak success at home is surprisingly simple. And I'm happy to tell you how.

Remember that great results become much easier if you start with the right steaks. If budget allows, look for USDA Prime meat, the highest quality available in tenderness and flavor. You won't find it in every supermarket, however, and may have to search at quality butcher shops. But most supermarkets do offer USDA Choice meat, which will also ensure great results.

I always prefer to use steaks from cattle that have been raised humanely, using traditional, sustainable farming methods, without antibiotics or hormones. Doing so is better for our own health, for future generations and for our planet. You may have to search for a market that carries such meat or look online but it is worth the effort.

Next comes the cut. In general, since grilling is a quick method, you need a tender steak like a New York, from the center loin; a rib-eye, from the middle of the ribs; a T-bone, from the short loin; or, for ultra tenderness, a tenderloin, also called filet mignon. If you choose a less expensive cut, such as flank or hanger steaks, you'll ensure more tender results by grilling them no more than medium, then letting them rest for 15 minutes after cooking before thinly slicing across the grain.

Whatever the steak, let it come to room temperature for an hour before grilling, to ensure quick, even cooking. Then, just before cooking, season generously on both sides with sea salt and freshly ground pepper and brush with olive oil to prevent sticking and help them brown.

As for the cooking itself, start all steaks directly over the hottest part of the fire. If they're about 1 inch thick, you can do all the cooking there but thicker steaks should be seared over the hottest area for 3 minutes per side, then moved to the side to finish cooking. Test for doneness with an instant-read grilling thermometer inserted into the thickest part; 130 to 140 F indicates a juicy medium-rare steak.

All that's left is to serve it however you like -- on its own or with a sauce made in the kitchen, like my easy mixture of buttery, cognac-laced mushrooms. Simple touches like that are one final secret to steak success.

NEW YORK STEAKS WITH MUSHROOMS AND GRILLED SCALLIONS

Serves 4

4 New York Strip steaks, each 8 to 10 ounces, cut 1 inch thick

2 cups good-quality canned beef broth, reduced to 1 cup (in a skillet)

2 ounces unsalted butter

1 pound fresh shiitake or oyster mushrooms, wiped clean, trimmed and cut into slices 1/4 inch thick

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup cognac

1 small package fresh enoki mushrooms

12 large scallions

Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

Chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Remove the steaks and leave them at room temperature for about 1 hour. Meanwhile, build a fire in an outdoor charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill. At the same time, put the broth in a wide skillet, bring to a boil and continue boiling until reduced to 1 cup, about 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.

In a heavy skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter over high heat until bubbling slightly. Add the shiitakes and saute, stirring frequently, until they begin to brown slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat, remove the mushrooms from the pan and transfer to a bowl. Return the skillet to low heat, carefully pour in the cognac and, with a long kitchen match, carefully ignite. Let the flames die out on their own. Then raise the heat and, while stirring and scraping with a wooden spoon to deglaze any pan deposits, cook until the cognac has reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the reduced beef broth and continue cooking until the liquid has thickened slightly but is still fairly light, 2 to 3 minutes more. Stir the shiitake mushrooms and their juices back into the skillet and taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary. A small piece at a time, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Then stir in the enoki mushrooms. Set the sauce aside, covered to keep it warm.

When the grill is hot, lightly brush the scallions with a little olive oil. Grill them until browned and tender but still crunchy, about 2 minutes per side. Set the onions aside and keep them warm. Season the steaks on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush them with olive oil. Grill them until medium-rare, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove from the heat and let rest for a minute or two in a warm place.

If necessary, reheat the sauce briefly.

Place a grilled scallion on the side of each of 4 warmed dinner plates. Spoon most of the mushroom sauce in the middle of the plates, reserving a few tablespoons. Place a steak on top of the sauce, spoon the remaining sauce onto the center of the steak, garnish with chives and serve immediately.

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