ArcaMax

As dads everywhere haul out and clean up their grills this month (especially with Father's Day on Sunday), I find myself thinking about the passion so many people have for outdoor cooking.

It's easy to fall into the trap of believing that grilling and barbecuing, its related slower outdoor-cooking method, are distinctly American ways of preparing food. After all, grilled steaks, burgers and chops, and tender barbecue are hallmarks of our nation's cuisine.

But then you remember that great fresh tuna fillet you enjoyed last week at your nearby Italian trattoria or those wonderful garlic-and-oregano lamb chops you had at the local Greek place. And you realize: People grill in other countries, too!

Not so long ago, all of humankind cooked over open fires. In many places around the world today, that still holds true. Grilling is actually the one cooking method most everyone on the planet has in common.

That's one of the reasons why I get so excited about all the delicious recipes we grill at my Chinois restaurants in Santa Monica and Las Vegas. Some of the best Chinese dishes of all are cooked with live flames. And just as American barbecue gains amazing variety from the many different marinades and sauces that cooks apply, so too can Chinese seasonings contribute wonderful flavor to grilled food.

When I first opened Chinois in 1983, seasoning grilled food with mirin (sweet sake), rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, dark-brown Asian-style toasted sesame oil, cilantro and ginger seemed like a novelty to most people. Today, however, you can find them all in well-stocked markets, and their flavors seem downright familiar.

One of my favorite cuts to cook Chinois-style is a kind of beefsteak commonly known and sold as London broil. Yes, I know that no true single part of the animal is called the "London broil." That term actually came about to describe any tough, lean, fairly thin steak -- whether from the flank, top round or shoulder -- that was pan-broiled to medium-rare and then thinly sliced for greater tenderness. But since many markets use the term, and many home cooks know it, I use it too! You could also substitute New York or rib-eye steaks if you prefer.

Whichever cut becomes your London broil, my Chinois marinade complements its rich flavor and enhances its tenderness. It shouldn't spend much time in the marinade, either, since the steak is fairly thin. Then, after the steak is grilled, I leave it to rest for about 10 minutes before carving, to allow the bubbling-hot juices to settle back into the meat's fibers. As a final touch, I spoon my Cilantro-Mint Vinaigrette over the carved meat.

You'll find you've entered a whole new world of grilling possibilities.

CHINOIS MARINATED GRILLED LONDON BROIL WITH CILANTRO-MINT VINAIGRETTE

Serves 6

Marinated London Broil:

2 large London broil steaks, each 1-1/2 to 2 pounds

1 cup soy sauce

1 cup mirin (sweet sake)

2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

2 cups chopped scallions

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced

Freshly ground black pepper

Cilantro-Mint Vinaigrette:

1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint leaves

1/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves

1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley leaves

1 tablespoon honey

1/2 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 egg yolk (optional)

Splash of chili oil (optional)

1 cup peanut oil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Thoroughly trim the London broil of connective tissue and excess fat; put them in a shallow, flat reactive dish large enough to hold them side by side.

In a mixing bowl, stir together the soy sauce, mirin, sesame oil, scallions, ginger, red pepper flakes and garlic to taste. Pour the mixture over the steaks, cover and leave them in the refrigerator to marinate for 1 to 2 hours. Before cooking, remove the steaks from the marinade and leave them at room temperature. Discard the marinade.

Meanwhile, prepare a fire in an outdoor grill or preheat a broiler or ridged grill pan.

While the grill is heating, prepare the vinaigrette. Put the vinegar, mint, cilantro, parsley, honey, ginger, egg yolk, and, if you want spicier results, a little chili oil in a blender or food processor. (If you're wary of eating raw egg yolk, simply leave it out; your dressing will be less rich and thick but no less delicious.) Blend or process until the herbs are finely chopped and a smooth paste has formed. With the machine running, slow drizzle in the peanut oil to form a smooth emulsion. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a bowl.

Season the steaks on both sides with black pepper. Grill or broil them until medium rare, about 5 minutes per side. Remove the steaks from the grill and let them rest in a warm place for about 10 minutes.

To serve, carve the steaks diagonally across the grain into thin slices. Drizzle the sliced steak with the vinaigrette.