New take on Caesar salad shows dish's versatility

What makes a recipe food lovers refer to as a classic? It has to taste delicious and, of course, look beautiful. It should satisfy the other senses, too, offering enticing aromas, pleasing textures, and even delightful sounds. A classic should also stand the test of time, regardless of whatever food fads may come or go.

I'd like to add another qualification: A classic must be so good that it's also versatile, leaving room for some creativity. Professional chefs and home cooks alike come to appreciate the ability such dishes have to seem fresh and new when we want them to.

By such standards, Caesar salad certainly counts as a classic. The improvised creation of restaurateur Caesar Cardini, who whipped it up late one evening in 1924 from odds and ends in his kitchen in Tijuana, Mexico, the dish has long since become a worldwide favorite: a simple yet complex-tasting assemblage of crisp, chilled Romaine lettuce; garlicky croutons; and a rich dressing of egg, garlic, olive oil, Dijon mustard, Parmesan and a hint of canned salted anchovy fillets, which may also be added whole as a garnish.

Restaurant guests today have long since grown accustomed to enjoying Caesar salad as a dinner appetizer or lunchtime main dish, the latter frequently topped with grilled seafood, chicken or steak. I've seen several variations: low-fat Caesars in which the dressing's egg is replaced by creamy, fat-free Greek yogurt; Southwestern Caesar salads seasoned with smoky dried chipotle chilies; and trendy Caesars in which raw kale replaces the Romaine. And, if they're made with culinary know-how, they all work, as smart variations on a classic often do.

In that spirit, I'd like to share one of my own spins on Caesar salad; this one inspired by the cuisine of southern France, where I spent some of my formative years as a chef cooking under the late, great Raymond Thuilier at his famed, Michelin-starred L'Oustau de Baumaniere. This version keeps the lettuce and dressing largely unchanged. Its departure from tradition comes in the croutons.

Instead of the usual bread cubes, I start with wider, bite-sized pieces. Before baking, I toss them not only with garlic, olive oil and Parmesan, but also fragrant fresh herbs you might find growing on a Provencal hillside. Then, just before serving, I spread each crouton with tapenade, the classic olive spread of the region, for which I offer an easy, delicious recipe here. Combined with the cold lettuce and fragrant dressing, it all adds up to a Caesar salad that tastes both unmistakably authentic and surprisingly different.

I hope you enjoy this version, which makes a perfect springtime or summer recipe. May it also inspire you to come up with your own variations on a classic!

PROVENCAL CAESAR SALAD WITH TAPENADE CROUTONS

Serves 2 to 4

For the tapenade croutons:

1/3 cup (85 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

1-pound (500-g) loaf day-old sourdough bread, cut into slices 1/3 inch (8 mm) thick, slices cut into large bite-sized pieces, to get about 2 cups (500 mL) of pieces

Black-and-green olive tapenade (recipe follows)

For the salad:

2 heads baby romaine lettuce or hearts of romaine, or 1 large head romaine, leaves separated, rinsed well, patted dry thoroughly, wrapped in a clean damp kitchen towel, and chilled in the refrigerator

Caesar vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

First, make the tapenade croutons: Preheat the oven to 350 F (175 C). Meanwhile, in a medium mixing bowl, stir together the oil, Parmesan, garlic, oregano and thyme. Add the bread, and toss well to coat. Arrange the bread in a single layer on a baking sheet, and bake until golden brown on all sides, turning them about halfway through, about 10 minutes total. Remove from the oven, cool to room temperature, and store in a cool, dry place until ready to use.

For the salad, trim the lettuce and tear into bite-sized pieces; or, if using smaller leaves, keep them whole. Put the lettuce in a large mixing bowl and toss well with enough Caesar vinaigrette to coat evenly.

Arrange the lettuce attractively on chilled salad plates, stacking whole leaves or mounding pieces. Sprinkle with Parmesan and black pepper to taste.

Just before serving, spread a thin layer of black-and-green tapenade on one side of each crouton. Arrange croutons on top of or around the salads. Serve immediately.

BLACK-AND-GREEN OLIVE TAPENADE

Makes 1 heaping cup (250 mL)

1 cup (250 mL) Nicoise olives, pitted

1 cup (250 mL) small green French olives (Picholines), pitted

1/4 cup (60 mL) drained oil-packed sun-dried tomato pieces

1 tablespoon drained capers

1 clove garlic, trimmed and peeled

1 oil-packed anchovy fillet, drained

1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves

1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

1/4 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves

1/4 cup (60 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

Put all of the ingredients except the oil in a food processor. Pulse the machine on and off until the ingredients are coarsely chopped and well blended. Turn on the machine and continue processing while slowly adding the oil, until the mixture resembles a coarse puree. Transfer to a covered container and use as needed, storing in the refrigerator for up to one week.

CAESAR VINAIGRETTE

Makes about 2 cups (500 mL)

1 large pasteurized egg

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/4 teaspoon crush red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained and mashed

1 scant cup (250 mL) peanut oil

1/3 cup (85 mL) extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup (60 mL) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the egg, lemon juice, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, red pepper flakes, mustard and anchovies. While whisking continuously, slowly drizzle in the oils to form a thick emulsion. Stir in the cheese, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to one week, whisking again before use.