Despite changes, Venice still charms
Despite all the changes, Venice still awes me with its ethereal beauty and lovely views -- which can hit you from any direction (that's why I recommend that you always look both ways when you pass over a Venetian bridge). In fact, if you pause anywhere in Venice and simply observe, from that single viewpoint you find the unique wonder of this forever unique city on the lagoon.
IF YOU VISIT...
SLEEPING: Near St. Mark's Square, try the lacy Hotel Campiello, once part of a 19th-century convent (splurge, www.hcampiello.it). Near the Accademia Bridge, you'll find Pensione la Calcina in a peaceful canal-side setting (moderate, www.lacalcina.com).
EATING: Osteria alle Testiere is my top dining splurge with market-fresh seafood and no meat on the menu (Calle del Mondo Novo, just off Campo Santa Maria Formosa, at no. 5801; tel. 041-522-7220). Pizzeria Vesuvio serves some of the best pizza in town (on Rio Tera Farsetti up from San Marcuola vaporetto stop, tel. 041-795-688).
GETTING AROUND: Venice is made for walking, but if you need to get across town quickly, its public transit system is a fleet of motorized bus-boats called vaporetti.
TOURIST INFORMATION: www.turismovenezia.it.
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Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.
(c)2012 RICK STEVES DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES, INC.
