I am often asked what kind of salmon I like best. My answer is whatever is wild and in season. Farm-raised salmon is available year-round but many fish lovers reject this type due to its mild flavor. There is also controversy over whether farm-raised fish have higher levels of toxins than wild varieties. I ask my fishmonger what they know about the farm where the fish is raised and whether they have checked on the toxin levels. If I am satisfied with their answer, I will buy it.

If you prefer wild salmon, you are in luck for a few more weeks. You can find Sockeye and Coho varieties in the fish section of your market. When selecting your salmon, check for a slightly sweet odor and firm flesh. Salmon filets may have tiny "pin" bones that are often buried vertically in the thickest part of the flesh. To remove them, press the meat with your fingers and remove any bones that appear. Tweezers come in handy for this job.

Poaching is one of the simplest ways to prepare salmon. Whether I am serving it chilled or warm, the technique remains the same. Allow 10 minutes per inch of thickness for cooking. If you plan to serve the salmon cold, let it cool in its stock for a few hours. This method keeps the fish very moist and extremely flavorful.

Quick, colorful and bursting with flavor, this silky poached salmon is crowned with a colorful tangle of Provencal flavors. The tomato, fennel, olive and white wine sauce is an assertive complement to the salmon. I like to serve this with steamed baby potatoes and fresh baby green beans. To drink, why not try a New Zealand sauvignon blanc or California viognier? I have also enjoyed this with a crisp dry rose from France or California.

Helpful Tips:

--Serve this chilled. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of vinaigrette to the sauce before serving.

--Cut the salmon into bite-sized pieces. Mix the salmon and sauce with cooked pasta. Add some vinaigrette and chill to serve as a pasta salad.

Poached Salmon Provencale

Serves 4.

Sauce:

...continued