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SERIOUSLY SIMPLE: Soft shell crabs are a limited seasonal summer dish

By Diane Rossen Worthington, Tribune Content Agency on

The first time I ever tasted soft-shell crab was on an early summer night at The Grill on the Alley in Los Angeles. The sweet yet mildly briny flavor and soft textured crab was unique and memorable.

Living in California has its benefits, but you won't find fresh soft-shell crab at many places. I returned recently to The Grill on the Alley for their 30th anniversary and enjoyed these sautéed crabs just as much as the first day I tried them. The restaurant has been buying its crab from the same purveyor since it opened. The quality of the catch is paramount, and I recommend buying from a specialist fishmonger to get the freshest crabs.

What is a soft-shell crab? It's an ordinary blue crab that has shed its hard outer shell during the normal process of seasonal growth. The crabs have an entirely different taste when they are in this state, and the delicate soft shells add a nice crunch. The peak of the soft-shell crab season is in July and August. This delicacy is most delicious when sauteed quickly.

Make sure the crabs are fresh and, if possible, that they come from Maryland. You'll find soft-shell crabs in different sizes. Look for the crabs to be at least 2 1/2 to 3 ounces. If you can find jumbo ones (4 ounces), that is even better. Save yourself extra fuss by having the crabs cleaned at the fish market so they are ready to go. If you can't find the jumbo size, just cook a few more.

This recipe is a mash-up of my usual rendition with how The Grill on the Alley prepares the crabs. They do a buttermilk wash that adds a tangy undertone of flavor. I season the flour with a bit of cayenne pepper and paprika to add some peppery zest. Serve these with coleslaw and baby roasted potatoes as a main course. For a first course, you'll just need some lemon garnish. What to Drink? How about a crisp and snappy white Soave, dry Riesling, medium to lightweight chardonnay or Australian semillon. All of these will provide just the right balance.

Soft Shell Crab with Lemon Butter

 

Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as a first course.

Buttermilk wash:

1 cup buttermilk

1 egg

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