Probably the most popular dish I'll be feeding the Hollywood stars after the Oscars ceremony in Hollywood on Sunday had its start as a happy accident.

Late one night back in the mid-1970s, the early days of my first Spago restaurant on the Sunset Strip, actress Joan Collins ordered our house-smoked salmon. We always served it then in the traditional way, accompanied by toasted slices of rich brioche bread with garnishes of chopped sweet onion, capers, chives, and lemon wedges.

That particular night, however, we were incredibly busy - so busy, in fact, that when the time came to send out Miss Collins' order, we discovered that we were completely out of bread. Even though it was almost midnight, things were still hopping in the dining room, and I couldn't spare anyone to send out to buy more.

So, on a whim, I decided to substitute some of the dough from the contemporary pizzas that had helped put Spago on the map. I rolled out the dough, spread some sliced onions on top, drizzled it with olive oil, and baked it - then cut the crispy dough into wedges to send out alongside the salmon.

But before the server picked it up, I had an idea. I prepared another crust in the same way, covered the still-hot dough with dill-flavored creme fraiche, and draped the cold smoked salmon on top. Because I knew Joan loved caviar, I added a big dollop in the center.

Voila! Spago's smoked salmon pizza was born. It was an immediate hit, and caught on so fast that several other movie stars also think I invented it just for them.

Wedges of that pizza, washed down with Champagne, will be the first things many stars eat when they head into the Governors Ball following the Oscars ceremony. And you can enjoy it before they do if, helped by the recipe I share here, you make the pizza as part of your own awards-watching party.

You can make the dough a day ahead of time. On Sunday morning, pop out to buy the best smoked salmon you can find. If you have a local market with a frequent turnover of quality product, have it thinly sliced to order and layered with waxed paper; otherwise, look for a good vacuum-packed brand to get the finest flavor.

And you don't have to spend a fortune on expensive caviar for the garnish, since the pizza is also great with inexpensive salmon roe or flying fish roe, or with no caviar at all and just a scattering of minced fresh chives. Add your favorite domestic or imported bubbly, and you're ready to celebrate.

SPAGO'S SMOKED SALMON PIZZA

Makes 4 pizzas, each 8 inches

PIZZA DOUGH:

1 package active dry yeast

1 teaspoon honey

1 cup warm water, 105 to 115 degrees

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

DILL CREAM:

1/2 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon minced shallot

2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill

1/2 tablespoon lemon juice

Pinch white pepper

PIZZA TOPPING:

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

10 ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon

4 teaspoons chopped fresh chives

1 tablespoon caviar

Up to a day or at least two hours ahead, make the Pizza Dough: In a small bowl, dissolve the yeast and honey in 1/4 cup of the warm water. In a mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour and salt. Add the oil, yeast mixture, and remaining water; mix on low speed until the dough comes cleanly away from the side of the bowl and clusters around the hook, about 5 minutes. (The dough can also be made in a food processor with the stainless-steel blade. Briefly pulse together the flour and salt. Add the dissolved yeast and other ingredients and process until the dough begins to form a ball.)

Turn out the dough onto a clean work surface and knead until smooth and firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a clean, lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean, damp towel, and leave to rise at warm room temperature for 30 minutes.

Make the Dill Cream: In a small bowl, stir together all the ingredients. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Divide the dough into 4 equal balls. On a smooth, clean surface, lightly work each ball by pulling down all around its sides and tucking underneath. Repeat 4 or 5 times per ball. Roll the ball under your palm until the dough feels smooth and firm, about 1 minute. Put the balls on a tray, cover with a damp towel, and let them rest for about 20 minutes. At this point, the balls can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

To make the pizzas, place a pizza stone on the middle rack of the oven and preheat the oven to 500 degrees.

To prepare each pizza, dip a dough ball into flour, shake off the excess, and place on a clean, lightly floured surface. Stretch the dough by pressing down on the center, spreading it into an 8-inch circle with a slightly thicker rim. (Alternatively, use a small rolling pin.) Lightly brush the inner circle with some olive oil and spread a quarter of the onions on top.

Slide a pizza paddle or rimless baking sheet under the pizza and slide it onto the pizza stone. Bake until the crust is golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes.

With the paddle, carefully remove the pizza and transfer to a cutting board. With the back of a spoon, spread some Dill Cream over the inner circle. Arrange salmon slices to cover the entire pizza, slightly overlapping the rim. Sprinkle with chives.

Using a pizza cutter or a large sharp knife, cut the pizza into 4 or 6 wedges. Spoon some caviar in the center of each slice. Serve immediately.

Chef Wolfgang Puck's TV series, "Wolfgang Puck's Cooking Class," airs Sundays on the Food Network. Also, his latest cookbook, "Wolfgang Puck Makes It Easy," is now available in bookstores. Write Wolfgang Puck in care of Tribune Media Services Inc., 2225 Kenmore Ave., Suite 114, Buffalo, N.Y. 14207.