When it comes to romantic presents, I leave the bouquets for others to give. The same usually goes for jewelry, stuffed animals, and just about any other typical gift-from-the-heart that you could name. And you aren't likely to see me standing in line anywhere that sells such things to pick up a last-minute gift on Feb. 14.

I like to plan my Valentine's Day presents ahead of time. And more often than not that means making something delicious with chocolate.

What could be more romantic than sharing the taste of chocolate with the one you love? One of my favorite ways to prepare chocolate for my Valentine is to make rich, fudgy brownies. The recipe I share with you here is a perfect version, for a number of reasons.

First, it starts with bittersweet chocolate, which delivers the most intense flavor. I like good quality European products with a high cocoa butter content, such as Valrhona or Callebaut, or a fine American brand, such as Scharffen Berger. I also enjoy going to a well-stocked gourmet food shop to see what kinds of new, exotic, imported chocolates they have made with cacao beans from single crops, plantations, or regions, sometimes even grown organically. (Choosing organic is a good way to get fine quality while helping the planet.)

I also like to add a hint of coffee, since the two flavors are so wonderfully compatible. Espresso powder or crystals are an ideal way of doing that without actually brewing the coffee.

The best way to melt chocolate is above a pan of barely simmering water, in another pan or bowl that doesn't come into direct contact with the water. That provides the gentle heat necessary to melt the chocolate without it seizing - a term that describes its tendency to stiffen suddenly and turn grainy. Always take care to keep the heat gentle and to avoid having any moisture contact the melting chocolate, and you shouldn't have any problems.

Once the chocolate has melted, you prepare what is basically a simple cake batter of flour, sugar, baking powder and eggs, into which you then blend the melted chocolate. I like to use just barely enough of the cake ingredients to bind the brownies together, so the results are as much as possible like dense chocolate fudge. I also include some nuts; use walnuts for a classic version, or try almonds, macadamias, hazelnuts or peanuts.

The brownies' richness ensures that they'll stay moist and delicious for several days if stored at room temperature in an airtight container. So make a batch soon, and you'll have them ready to share with your Valentine - if you don't eat up all of these delicious treats beforehand!

MY ROMANTICALLY DELICIOUS FUDGE BROWNIES

Makes 9

8 ounces unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus extra for greasing the pan

3/4 pound bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon instant espresso powder or crystals, diluted in 1 tablespoon hot water (optional)

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 large eggs

2 cups granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups coarsely chopped walnuts or other nuts

Position the rack in the center of your oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-inch square baking pan, or coat it with nonstick spray; dust its bottom and sides with a little flour, tapping out excess flour into the sink. Set aside.

In the top of a double boiler or medium heatproof bowl set over but not touching simmering water, combine the butter pieces, chopped chocolate, and, if using, the diluted espresso. Stir until the chocolate has almost melted, but not quite completely. Turn off the heat, stir again, and leave to melt completely.

In a mixing bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

In a large heatproof mixing bowl set over but not touching simmering water, whisk the eggs, sugar and vanilla until the sugar dissolves. Transfer the mixture to the large bowl of an electric mixer and, on high speed using paddle or beaters, beat until pale yellow. (Alternatively, leave the mixture in its bowl, away from the heat, and beat with a handheld electric mixer).

Scrape in the chocolate mixture with a rubber spatula, reduce the mixer speed to medium, and continue beating until well mixed. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the flour mixture, continuing to beat just until combined. Add half of the walnuts and beat them in at low speed just until combined.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle the remaining nuts evenly over the top.

Bake until the brownies pull away from the side of the pan and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

To serve, use a table knife to cut the brownies in the pan into 9 squares, removing them with a spatula. Serve as is or with softly whipped cream or ice cream of your choice.

Chef Wolfgang Puck's TV series, "Wolfgang Puck's Cooking Class," airs Sundays on the Food Network. Also, his latest cookbook, "Wolfgang Puck Makes It Easy," is now available in bookstores. Write Wolfgang Puck in care of Tribune Media Services Inc., 2225 Kenmore Ave., Suite 114, Buffalo, N.Y. 14207.