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There are many dishes that create a sense of togetherness, but none is as famous as fondue. This dish of melted cheese originates from the Alps. The Swiss popularized and designated it a national dish in the 1930s. It eventually crossed the pond and became extremely popular in suburban America during the 1960s. There are also French and Italian versions, like Fonduta, as it's called in Italy.

Fonduta is a specialty of Piedmont and Valle d'Aosta. It is made with fontina, a young cow's milk cheese that melts much like mozzarella. Its taste is similar to other Alpine cheeses, like Gruyere and Emmental from Switzerland. The big difference between Swiss fondue and fonduta is that the Italian recipe does not include wine, garlic or cornstarch as thickener. Instead fonduta is made with butter, milk and egg yolks as thickener. It comes together much like custard and is made in a bain-marie, a double boiler. The final dish is richly flavored and silken. It's ideal for a communal gathering of family or a party with friends. Just add a roaring fire, and complete the Alpine feel.

This recipe is pretty much traditional. My extra touch is a bit of cayenne pepper to add heat to the back of the throat. The classic Italian finishing touch is a shaving of white truffle. But since that is quite expensive, I would recommend a drizzle of truffle oil instead. Serve the fonduta with crostini, which are toasted bread slices, and boiled fingerling potatoes, which are just the right size to dip in and eat in one bite. Baby pickles, called cornichon in French, are also very nice to serve alongside, as they cut through the richness of the cheese.

Fonduta

Serves 4 to 6

3 large egg yolks

3/4 cup plus 1/4 cup whole milk

2 tablespoons butter

8 ounces fontina cheese, diced

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