A perfectly ripe tomato is a beautiful thing. Unfortunately, tomatoes need to ripen slowly under a hot sun and have a short season. So, while a fresh tomato sauce made with ripe tomatoes may be perfect in summer, it is always better to use high-quality canned or packaged tomatoes in an off-season. The fresh tomato rule also rings true for this daikon and tomato "carpaccio" recipe from "Molto Batali" (Ecco, 2011). And, lucky for us, tomatoes are holding strong this season.

Roma tomatoes are a variety of plum tomatoes, and pear-shaped San Marzano are my favorite to use in this recipe, behind locally grown tomatoes from Eckerton Hill Farm in Lenhartsville, Pa. When sliced as thinly as possible and arranged as concentric circles on a large platter, pear-shaped Roma tomatoes add depth and texture that almost make it difficult to ruin the aesthetic by digging in.

Late summer tomatoes meet their match when combined with the undisputed king of cheeses, Parmigiano-Reggiano. Some Parmigiano enthusiasts claim to prefer cheeses made in the late spring and summer months, when the animal's feed is fresh grass and wheat. I like all of them, but I do prefer a younger cheese for eating, unadorned with fresh daikon radish or with balsamic vinegar. When grating Parmigiano-Reggiano over my pasta and risotto however, I suggest using an older cheese.

Daikon and Tomato "Carpaccio"

Serves 8 to 10 as a side dish

2 firm ripe Roma tomatoes

1 large daikon radish

2 firm ripe golden or green zebra tomatoes

Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons

2 teaspoons spicy whole-grain mustard

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