A MEAL FOR AN 'R' MONTH
Many people have grown up hearing the rule that you should only eat shellfish during months with the letter "r" in their names, ruling out summer -- May, June, July, and August -- when warmer waters can promote the growth of bacteria that can wind up in the creatures and lead to human illness. That rule even worked fine for me, growing up in Austria, since the only month names without "r" in the German language were the same ones: Mai, Juni, Juli, and August!
Fortunately for me, we lived in southern Austria, not far from Italy. So, when I did eat shellfish, I got to know one of the world's best ways to prepare them: as the Italians do, quickly cooked with olive oil and butter, white wine, lots of garlic, and a pinch of hot pepper flakes, then tossed with pasta.
Take the pasta away, and you have the similar French shellfish preparation called mariniere, or "sailor-style," traditionally used for mussels. Without pasta, it's more of a bistro-style first-course; with pasta, you can make a meal of it. Either way, I like it with garlic bread to soak up the juices.
I love preparing shellfish this simple way. They don't cook for very long, so they stay very tender and sweet. And they're very easy to cook.
For the best results, start with absolutely fresh shellfish. Buy them from a reliable seafood shop that has a rapid turnover of product. The clams should be tightly closed and smell only of fresh seawater, if at all; if any gape, the shell halves feel loose, or you detect even the slightest "off" smell, don't buy them.
Head straight home after purchasing, transfer the clams to a clean cloth storage bag, and refrigerate them; or put them in a large bowl, cover with a damp towel, and refrigerate. Do not submerge live clams in water or put them in a plastic bag.
Cook the clams within 24 hours. About 1-1/2 hours before you start cooking them, scrub the shells thoroughly with a stiff-bristled brush under cold running water. Soak the scrubbed clams for about 1 hour in a large bowl or pot filled with fresh, cold water, to which you add 1/3 cup of salt and 1/4 cup of cornmeal per 1 gallon of water. This mixture causes the clams to expel any sand left inside their shells, and also lightens the color of their meat. Then, lift the clams by hands out of the water, leaving the grit behind.
Finally, you'll be ready to prepare one of my favorite seafood pasta recipes. And you can go on enjoying it during any month with an "r" in its name.
FETTUCCINE WITH CLAMS
Serves 4 to 6
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pasta water
2 shallots, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
Pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 pound fresh live clams in the shell, cleaned
2 sprigs tarragon, leaves stripped
1 sprig thyme, leaves stripped
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1/2 cup dry white wine
12 ounces fresh fettuccine
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon leaves
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
Bring a pot filled with lightly salted water to a boil.
Meanwhile, heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil. When the butter has melted and starts to foam, add the shallots and garlic and saute until translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the chili flakes.
Add the clams, tarragon leaves, thyme leaves, and rosemary sprig and continue to saute until the herbs are fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and stir and scrape with a wooden spoon to deglaze any pan deposits. Sprinkle to taste with salt and pepper. Cover the pan, raise the heat to high, and continue to cook until the clams have opened, 3 to 4 minutes.
As soon as the water in the pot is boiling, add a drizzle of olive oil and add the fettuccine to the water. Cook until the pasta is al dente, tender but still slightly chewy, following the suggested cooking time on the package.
Remove the lid from the pan of clams. Discard the rosemary sprig and any unopened clams. Taste the sauce and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning with a little more salt and pepper. As soon as the pasta is done, drain it and add the pasta, still slightly dripping, to the clams along with the chopped parsley and tarragon and the Parmesan. Toss to combine the sauce, clams, and pasta thoroughly.
Serve immediately. Use tongs or a pasta server to pile the fettuccine in individual large, shallow pasta bowls; then, add the clams and sauce to each serving with a large serving spoon.
This news arrived on: 01/23/2008
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