HOMESTYLE COOKING FOR SIEGFRIED AND ROY
By Wolfgang Puck
Autumn makes many of us think about slowly cooked dishes that provide
warmth and comfort. No matter who you are or where you come from, such
home-style recipes are among the most sought-after and beloved I know.
That fact became dramatically clear to me six years ago when I was
invited to shoot an episode of my Food Network television series with
my friends Siegfried and Roy, the legendary Las Vegas magicians.
Planning the show, I thought at first that I should cook something as
spectacular as the illusions for which the duo is so well known. But
then it dawned on me that fancy food was precisely what they wouldn't
want to eat when relaxing at home. At that moment, I knew what I would
make: stuffed cabbage. Siegfried and Roy grew up in Germany, not that
far from my own boyhood home in Austria. So it was a safe guess that
their families enjoyed the same dish my mother and grandmother made
once a week during autumn and winter. You should have seen their happy
expressions when I told them what we were eating. The TV crew set up
an outdoor kitchen on the palatial grounds of their estate. With
Siegfried and Roy as my assistants, I went to work, teaching my
friends the same basics that I'm happy to share here. To be honest,
I'm surprised I remember the recipe at all, considering that I was
handling raw meat while giant lions and tigers were walking nearby on
leashes no bigger than the one I use for my toy poodle. You can use
any kind of ground meat you like for the filling. I prefer chicken,
turkey, pork or veal; beef and lamb are good, too, but they'll give
less delicate results. To lighten the filling, I add some bread soaked
in milk. In addition to salt and pepper, you can also include your
favorite herbs or spices, nuts such as pistachios, almonds or pine
nuts, and dried fruit such as raisins or chopped apricots. I like to
use large, beautiful Savoy cabbage leaves. For ease of wrapping, I cut
out the thick stems, then blanch the leaves briefly in boiling water
to make them pliable. Finally comes the sauce. I like a light but
tangy tomato sauce to accent the flavors. If you like, add a little
sugar and vinegar for a traditional middle-European sweet-and-sour
effect. If you're pressed for time, you can even substitute
store-bought marinara. Whatever you use, be sure to cook the stuffed
cabbage long enough at gentle heat for the leaves to become almost
meltingly tender. Whether you enjoy it hot or even cold the next day,
the result is the delicious stuff of heartwarming memories. STUFFED
CABBAGE LEAVES WITH PAPRIKA TOMATO SAUCE Serves 4 STUFFED CABBAGE
LEAVES 9 slices white bread, crusts removed, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1
cup milk 1-1/2 pounds ground meat of your choice 2 tablespoons chopped
fresh parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage 1 tablespoon finely
chopped garlic 1-1/2 tablespoons salt 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon
freshly ground black pepper Water 12 large cabbage leaves, preferably
Savoy cabbage PAPRIKA TOMATO SAUCE 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive
oil 1 cup diced onion 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 1 tablespoon
tomato paste 4 teaspoons sweet paprika 2 cups organic chicken broth 1
cup diced tomatoes 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 4
leaves fresh sage or 4 sprigs fresh thyme Salt Freshly ground black
pepper First, make the filling for the Stuffed Cabbage Leaves: Put the
bread cubes in a small mixing bowl, add the milk and leave the bread
to soak until it is completely saturated, about 30 minutes. With your
hands, squeeze out the excess milk. Discard the milk and add the
soaked bread to a large mixing bowl with the meat, parsley, sage,
garlic, salt, sugar and pepper. Mix well, cover with plastic wrap and
refrigerate. Bring a pot of water to a boil and prepare a large bowl
full of ice and water. Add the cabbage leaves to the pot and blanch
them in the boiling water just until they are slightly wilted, about 1
minute; then drain them and immediately transfer to the ice water.
When the leaves are cold, remove them from the water and pat them dry.
With a small, sharp knife, cut the thick part of the stem from each
leaf. Place a heaping 1/2 cup of the filling in the center of each
cabbage leaf. Fold the sides of the leaf over the filling, overlapping
them slightly; then, starting at the stem end, roll up the leaf into a
compact bundle. Set aside, seam down. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees
F. Meanwhile, make the sauce: Heat a large ovenproof saucepan over
medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, onion and garlic and saute until
translucent, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and paprika and
saute briefly. Then stir in the chicken broth, tomatoes, balsamic
vinegar, sugar, and sage or thyme. Season to taste with salt and
pepper. Simmer for 5 minutes. Arrange the stuffed cabbage leaves
neatly in a single layer in the saucepan. Bring the sauce back to a
boil. Transfer the pan to the preheated oven and bake until the rolls
are cooked through and firm to the touch, 25 to 30 minutes. To serve,
use a large spoon to transfer the rolls to a platter or individual
heated plates. Spoon the sauce over and around them. Tribune Media
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This news arrived on: 10/17/2007
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